by Fabiola Pulieri

“The tradition is successful innovation” this is the phrase that opens the menu of the restaurant “Osteria Porta del Vaglio”.

In the kitchen, Gennaro Di Pace, a young chef, but even with so much experience, Calabrese, who lived many years in Bologna, which Farinetti wanted at all costs to Eataly and that has been recognized and appreciated by many at Expo 2015 . Gennaro Di Pace after working with top chefs as Marcello Leoni and pastry chefs, including the maestro Gino Fabbri, thanks to which has joined Euro Toques and has won the “Innovation Gastronomica”, Federation of Italian cooks award, chose to return to live in that difficult and always on everyone’s lips for criticisms and news events Calabria, and to open in Saracena, a village of a few thousand inhabitants in the province of Cosenza, its restraunt “Osteria Porta del Vaglio”. This decision, according to some crazy, it was tough at first very painful, but it is worth more than a recognition of the restaurant and its chef, which has confirmed that it quickly became a reference point for food lovers, of the refinement of the typical Calabrian products, thanks to the processing of excellent raw materials and careful of an elegance to the table much appreciated.

Sophisticated and authentic products from high cosentino like the rice cultivated in the plain of Sibari, the Silano potato, beans and lentils from Mormanno, the Pecorino Calabrese, tomato from Belmonte or the very sweet muscat from Saracena. Some of these typical products are Slow Food presidia, they are precious and are treated as such. The main aim of the chef today, as four years ago when he opened his restaurant, is to raise awareness of its territory, the traditions that evolve with the new generations, the infinite possible culinary combinations that Calabria offers to those who go to visit her and really wants to know her. “To speak ill of Calabria is easy, but to know her thoroughly, love her, appreciate her and not abandon her is not for all – says Di Pace -. In Calabria lacks the promotion of places and typical products, which are not only the ‘nduja or chili, but many, many others are still unfortunately little known”.
Osteria Porta del Vaglio is a docking where those who arrive can take a tour of the flavors of the high Cosentino and the whole Calabria. The restaurant has limited seating (30/35) and a welcoming atmosphere and elegant,

a menu that varies depending on the season, dishes prepared with few ingredients, simple and cleverly combined, updated in the taste by adding new elements that redefine the dishes, presented as works of art, while respecting tradition. From wine to food in this restaurant, everything is “made in Calabria” except small exceptions in wine rack, where you can see a few bottles from the Sicilian company Cusumano. The network that has developed between local producers and the chef has become the strength of this determined young man, with an exceptional technique, precise, a nice guy and with a smile that is the emblem of the sun of Calabria.

Gennaro Di Pace has made a clear choice: to educate the guests of his restaurant. “I love this land and I like to make her known, make known the producers that every day work her, educating people to food, to quality and to the territory, it is important to go to the table to talk to customers, telling them how much you earn to eat well,in terms of qiality of life and health- tells the young chef -. I was just one of many boys of my age who have been wanting to go back to Calabria and start to build the future from the roots created here by our grandparents and our parents, starting with the tradition that becomes innovation of time passing!” Osteria Porta del Vaglio is an interesting restaurant for ethics and professionalism, for the technique used by the chef in the construction and presentation of its food and selection of raw materials, in short, a restaurant leaning towards more deserved awards.

A few proposals

appetizers

Cannoli with phyllo pastry stuffed with Silana potatoes, ricotta and spinach on a cream with nuts
Podolico Beef tartare my own way with turmeric mayonnaise, apple vinegar and tomato jelly at pizzaiola
Terrine of cuttlefish and radicchio on creamed Silana potatoes and caviar of lemon

First courses

Potato gnocchi with porcini mushroom on a cream of buffalo
Sibari creamy risotto with extra virgin olive oil with leeks, squids, blonde Calabria orange and ginger
Barley with soppressata, artichokes and coarse mustard foam and nduja
Chestnut flour Butterflies with lamb sauce, sun-dried tomatoes and fennel puree

Second courses

Sea bass and Swiss chard roulade on creamed chickpeas flavored with truffles Calabrese pork tenderloin with Saracena muscat sauce, raisins and prunes
Rollè of rabbit and chicory on a cream of purple potatoes

Desserts

Dark chocolate mousse and dry Belmonte figs on soft chocolate and crunchy nuts waffle
Bavarian hazelnut on soft biscuit with cocoa and coffee sauce
Carrots frangipane on cold orange broth and whipped cream

“Osteria Porta del Vaglio”
Vico Santa Maria Maddalena, 12
Saracena, Cosenza
Opening hours: from 12 to 14.30; 19.30 to 22.30
Closed on Monday

Sources: cronachedigusto.it
osteriaportadelvaglio.it